The coronavirus has shown that life, even in the most beautiful places in the world, has become more difficult. However, Margherita Igańska, a Pole living by the ocean in Portugal, shows that despite the obstacles it is worth continuing your passions. In an interview with Onet Podróże (Travel site of the the largest horizontal web portal in Poland) she told about why she decided to move to the ocean and her love of surfing ... Karolina Walczowska, Marcin Mroczko: Where did Portugal come from? High ocean waves and a short flight from Poland?
Margherita Igańska: If you want to become a surfer, you have to live by the ocean. I myself started - like everyone else - from surfing camps. The first one I went to Portugal, then Morocco and the Canary Islands. After two years, I went to a two-week surf camp in Sri Lanka. Then it was time for individual trips, but with time they also ceased to be enough for me. Surfing is addictive. Portugal has the best surfing conditions in Europe, surfers from all over the world come here also from France, Spain, the Netherlands, Denmark and Ireland, where they also have their own waves. For some reason, however, they choose Portugal. In Portugal, the waves are the biggest and surfing is the most popular, the country lives surfing. Ericeira where I live is the only city in Europe on the list of the best surfing spots. Besides, this list includes places in Australia, Peru, Chile, Brazil, California and Mexico, so it's probably the best recommendation.
What are the conditions to be on this elite list?
Places must have open access to waves formed throughout the year (the so-called consistent surf) and a diverse and intact civilisation, wild coastline with protected flora and fauna. A rich surfing history and culture, and a strong, supportive surf community are also important, and Ericeira has it all. In my opinion, it is one of the most magical places in Portugal and a real surfing paradise.
There have been many stories about taking off corporate shackles and going "to the Bieszczady Mountains". How much spontaneity and romanticism in your story, and how much calculation and calculation?
I worked for 10 years for the largest film portal in Poland, which was not a corporation, but in fact the work in this portal was very dynamic, non-stop between the office and continuous meetings. The pace of work was tremendous. I can see it clearly only now, when I have moved to Portugal, and even more so after the last six months in Costa Rica. Before this happened, however, I lived in Warsaw for a long time and the more I surfed, the more I realised that my time in this beautiful city with which I have so many memories is coming to an end and I felt the ocean calling more and more. One day, the right moment came to talk to the Management Board about the separation and prepare the ground for a permanent trip to Portugal. Have you given yourself time: "If I fail after six months - I'll be back"? I don't set myself such boundaries. Time is a relative term and return is always possible. I believe that you do not change your whole life to assume that you will have to give it up. Surfing has taught me a great deal of patience in taking on risky tasks, in this sport nothing comes easy. But when it finally comes, the satisfaction is tremendous.
You are happy? At this time and place?
Yes, I'm happy. I feel that I am in the right place and give myself the chance to follow my own path every day. The trip here allowed me to make very valuable contacts. People decide to come here, stay or even live here for a reason. They share similar views and believe in similar things. And suddenly it turns out that they are very close to each other.
Ok, what advice do you have for those dreaming about the great CHANGE, from the perspective of the person who made it. Remember that we are read not only by the residents of Plac Zbawiciela (the most popular square in Warsaw, famous meeting point)
Believe in your dreams and follow them. It sounds like a cliche and threadbare slogan, but there is a lot of truth to it. The very fact that you are already thinking about change means that you are on the right path towards it. Take bold steps and don't look back. Change requires a lot of goodbyes, but gives a chance for a new opening. You do not need to have huge funds on your account, all you need is an idea and consistency in action. Give yourself time and space to organise your emotions that will go crazy. And try to accept every wave that comes your way as an opportunity, not as an obstacle. The rest will follow you.
There was something for the soul, now something for the body. What are your camps in Portugal like?
Mainly girls from Poland come to the "Girl on the wave" camps. Between the ages of 20 and 40. Sometimes they are younger, sometimes more. They come for one and the same purpose, they all want to learn to surf. Test your abilities and feel the true power of the ocean. I am very happy when among the beginners there are those for whom camp at my place is the beginning of a surfing adventure for a lifetime. These people come back very often, and this gives great satisfaction. I am aware that not all of the girls will come back with such a sneak peak, but each one fulfils her dream and often looks at her life through a completely new prism. My camps are conducive to internal changes. Of course, they are also conducive to great fun, integration, building female solidarity and cooperation. The girls give their best, tire themselves to death in classes on the water, turn deeply into themselves in yoga classes, study diligently at surfing workshops that I run.
A day in paradise starts at ...?
While surfing, we live in the rhythm of the ocean, so every day is adjusted to the high and low tides. Based on them, the hours of classes on the water are established. If we surf in the morning, we start the day with coffee and chocolate, and only after the surfing session we sit down to a solid breakfast. After that, free time, beach, shopping, sightseeing around. In the evening, relaxation yoga at sunset. A shared meal at home or in the city. If we surf at the end of the day, we start the day with a stimulating ashtanga and breakfast, the biggest secret of which is the mythical oatmeal (it tastes even to those who don't like oatmeal). During surf lessons, I record participants' journeys on the go pro camera. In our free time during the day, we sit in front of the TV and watch this material together. We talk about mistakes, about who needs to work on what. What is seen in the film is much more memorable and easier to correct. Thanks to this, progress comes much faster. Video analysis is a very important part of training at camps. Sounds great, and are you closing the camp to the masculine aspect? No, the camp is not closed to boys. Great guys come to me who understand each other and are able to take care of their well-being. They are boys, husbands of participants, but they also often come in their male groups. They have a great time with us and are a huge support for me too. That is why I invite you to my camps, gentlemen, sincerely! Nobody fights as boldly on green waves as they do!
Maybe I'll try it someday, although I feel safer in a fado embrace than a high wave. Can you run a tourist business here without knowing Portuguese?
Yes, you can. The Portuguese speak very good English. Portuguese is only needed for some official formalities. But as a person running her own registered company here, I don't think knowledge of Portuguese is necessary for this. Of course, in the case of my work here, the support element for me is my Facebook profile "Girl on the wave". It is here that people who dream of surfing, watch what is happening here and decide to fly.
Can you survive here with a Polish salary? What are the costs of living?
They are very similar. Food prices in stores such as Lidl or Pingo Doce, i.e. Portuguese Biedronka, are identical. The costs of eating out are similar. The costs of renting a flat or buying real estate also. Certainly, a Pole can afford remote work and living in Portugal. He doesn't even have to run his own business to live here. Now, with the coronavirus era, many employers allow remote work and some of my friends have come here for a longer period just to work and surf. I rent an apartment right next to the beach, but I use the coworking and coliving infrastructure for digital nomads.
Alvarinho and seafood are cheaper ... [smile]
Alphabetically, Poland and Portugal are next to each other, and how many separate them?
Less than 3.5 thousand km distance, 30 hours by car or 4 hours flight. While living in Portugal, I noticed that Poles and Portuguese really have a lot in common. We don't have a hot southern temperament (the Portuguese, contrary to appearances, are not Italians or Spaniards), but we can be temperamental. Sometimes it is not enough for the fuse to fire.
On the other hand, the Portuguese, and especially those who live by the ocean, have a lot of peace. Because of this calmness, certain things take an infinite amount of time here. Poles act fast. We are task-oriented, we can serve our customers very well, and efficiently respond to their needs. We are very specific in business. The Portuguese are in no hurry, it certainly divides us. They are honest and have a lot of personal culture and self-respect. Their disadvantage is that they often make disrespectful promises out of politeness. A Pole, if he promises something, he will cut it, but he will keep his word, but on the other hand, we are much more unbridled. What I really like about the Portuguese is that they are much more tolerant than us, they have been steeped in different cultures for hundreds of years. And they like Poles very much.
Melancholic and ready in moments of sadness to throw themselves from the rocks of Cabo da Roca into the November cold waters of the ocean and at the same time celebrating life over a glass of ginjinhia cherry vodka)?
The Portuguese have fado. They love unhappily. They miss you. They suffer. They have a romantic soul. We, in turn, have our beautiful Slavic soul. And we are even more melancholic than they are. We are also much more sad. The Portuguese know how to enjoy the moment more. Here and now. They celebrate life as it is. They are not a rich nation.
Lisbon is far from Vienna, Moscow or Paris, but there is no other city so beautiful to walk at night. Discovering its hills, stairs, trams, terraces, roofs and nooks and crannies, full of life and positive vibrations. I love to break away from Ericeira to spend all my nights in Lisbon. In its streets and in its clubs. Ericeira and Lisbon are only 40 km away.
Despite many similarities between our nations, the Portuguese president stands far from the Polish ... Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa is a superhero in Portugal. His visits to the supermarket and standing in the checkout line are no surprise to anyone, much less the presence of the president on a beach in Cascais. He is a president who is close to people, listens to their needs and understands them. He has great respect for Portuguese tradition and culture, and at the same time is very progressive, he believes in the country's development through access to new technologies. I am also a definite fan of this unique politician. This man here wearing fancy shorts is Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa, president of Portugal, waiting in the line in a grocery shop.
How far is it from hedonistic games on the Atlantic waves to the melancholy of saudade and fado? The melange of sweet and salty is tempting.
I wouldn't call these surfing games hedonistic. Surfing is rather a combination of an incurable need for transcendence with a transcendental experience. In simple terms, surfing is a unique and extreme in emotions adventure. Full of hard struggles with nature and its mighty element, but also breathtaking views of the waves, their roar, the structure of water, the break of lights and colours, the dawn of the day or the setting sun.
It is said that man feels safe in the ocean as in the womb. Water, its sound is a return to the earliest encoded memories. Some people believe that this is a return to the beginning of evolution when we came ashore. That is why this is how we understand dolphins and whales. I believe in it. I have not yet met a person who, after leaving the ocean, does not feel a very strong bond with him.
Initially, Portugal was one of the countries that fared best in Europe against the coronavirus pandemic. On September 15, the high-risk state (Estado de contingência) was introduced. What is the situation today? There is and has never been any serious threat. The rate of new infections is very low. From the beginning of May, Portugal is open to all visitors from the territory of the EU. There is no quarantine order, no test warrant (except Madeira and Azores). On September 15, a state that is described as exceptional was introduced, but it mainly concerns safe entry into the starting school year. The resulting bans apply to mass gatherings, drinking alcohol in the street, shortening the opening hours of shops and restaurants. The masks were and are in force in public transport and in shops.
There is no and never has been an order to wear a face mask on the beach. Surfing classes take place. Yoga on the beach as well. It is safe in cities and resorts. If you are interested in the current situation in Portugal, I encourage you to check all information on this subject at this address.
Do you feel safe?
There is no policy of fear here, but the Portuguese approach to the epidemic is definitely responsible. People follow the rules of social distancing and there are no crowds in public places. You can feel that Lisbon is much more empty. In Ericeir, the music in the streets does not roar at night and people do not spill out of the bars onto the streets as is usual in summer. We have fun at houses, in our own group and with local friends, we strictly adhere to the guest list. On the other hand, we will not encounter artificially pumped fear. I don't think about the coronavirus on a daily basis.
What is life like in big cities today? Do the Alfama and Barrio Alto clubs celebrate every day as before?
It is calmer. Large Lux Fragil discos are closed. Theme bars only at certain times. One of these Portuguese rules is that you can only sit and drink alcohol if you order something to eat. So bars have been somewhat subsumed under the category of restaurants and there are no uncontrolled crowds there. Supermarkets only admit an amount of customers at a time. Disinfecting liquids are generally available, and the lines at the cash registers are separated. It is not possible to sit down in the restaurant for more than 10 people, at open-air events you can only sit down for the ten. These rules are kept confidential, so everyone feels safe
Fines and penalties?
I know that a lot of permissions are imposed on objects in which a coronovirus case is diagnosed. Strict procedures are also prescribed for the diagnosis itself. In Ericeira they bought me two months ago at one of the campsites. The kids from Madrid brought the sexes with them. After this incident, the campground was closed and I have not heard of a similar case.
Restrictions are imposed on residents, including tourists, but they are reasonable. And most importantly, they do not interfere with running surfing courses, which is what we care about the most. He doesn't want to lose use in the Portuguese tourism trade. Portuguese President Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa is aware of the stabilizing effect that tourism is for the Portuguese economy. Since direct flights from Poland to Portugal are available and people have started to boldly fly in here. This is a very positive signal.
The COVID-19 panic caused us to unconditionally surrender some of our rights, stopped traveling, or banned these journeys. In "normal times" we would now be planning trips at the turn of the year, and the only limitation - apart from fantasy - would be the free time and budget available ...
100 percent right! This is exactly what happened at the end of last year. I ended the season in Portugal in October, and in November I was already leaving with the offer of camps for 2020. It was going to be a great year. By the end of December, I had all the places for the camps booked in June and about 30 percent. places for the remaining 8 camps. On this good wave of events, I announced an additional camp in Costa Rica in February, which was attended by 16 people. It was a great team and a trip full of impressions. From Costa Rica I went on a boarding trip around Panama and there, on the Caribbean islands of Bocas del Toro, I received information about the planned border closure due to the threat of coronavirus. I crossed the border bridge with Costa Rica on foot with a board on my shoulder, four hours later there was a lockdown. My flight from Costa Rica's capital city was canceled two weeks later and I stayed there for the entire duration of the quarantine. It was a journey of a lifetime unique in every way. A kind of spiritual awakening.
I joke that now it is extravagant to travel from Dolny Mokotów to Ochota (Warsaw Quartiers) , or translating it into Portuguese topography; from Lisbon to Cascais or Estoril… We have lived to see the sad times. In mid-June, I managed to catch an Air France rescue plane by throwing a tape measure and returned to Portugal. The June camps have been fully postponed to the next dates, but since July I have been organising again and I really hope that this September and October will bring a lot of good. I am aware that Poles have lulled their travel dreams, but many people are also beginning to feel the lack of them and feel that the right moment is coming. And I feel it on my e-mail too.
After the situation with direct flights from Poland to Portugal stabilised, I received a lot of e-mails asking me to book places at the upcoming camps. I am of good cheer.
We can only repeat: let's not give up on safe travel ...
It is never worth giving up traveling. Especially in times like now. Traveling gives great joy, a sense of freedom, allows you to catch your breath and distance yourself from your own problems. Money spent on travel will never be lost. It's harder. This year was supposed to be the best in my case. 2018 was a trial year for me, last one was the first full season in which I gained experience and the current one was to be the proverbial Cossack. Unfortunately, it turned out to be half burned. And not because of restrictions in Portugal, but because of restrictions in Poland. Girl on the wave is so far a project dedicated primarily to Polish women and Poles, and this has largely influenced my activities. But I'm not giving up, followed by a beautiful camp in July, two small camps in August, and a full large camp that ended on September 12th. The next ones are starting in a few days - there are still places available. I invite you!
*** Margherita Igańska - she lived in Warsaw, dealt with broadly understood advertising, and the pace of her life was very fast. At one point she wanted to live by the ocean. Now Margherita has a typical surfing life in Portugal. She organises Girl on the Wave camps.